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Thread: Nora the LDV; build thread...

  1. #25
    Comfortably Numb Rick69's Avatar
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    also, the ldv group on facebook has loads of posts and advice re the flooring and water leaks

    https://m.facebook.com/groups/274279322725138/

  2. #26
    Heavenly Creature realnutter's Avatar
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    I haven't done a thorough check yet, but the windscreen rubber is in a pretty bad way - split at the corners... I'll check the other points though!!

    Thanks!

    Matt
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  3. #27
    Non of this matters NomadicRT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by realnutter View Post
    I haven't done a thorough check yet, but the windscreen rubber is in a pretty bad way - split at the corners... I'll check the other points though!!

    Thanks!

    Matt
    They usually are..they nesrly always have cab leaks.You can get a new seal off ebay.Side windows leak and somtimes roof gutter leaks
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  4. #28
    Heavenly Creature
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    Our side door leaks! It caused the step to rot. Had that and the driver's floor welded for the test. Also a nice transit seat fitted. Sorry but the LDV seats are made of cardboard!

  5. #29
    Comfortably Numb Rick69's Avatar
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    The problem with the window seal is that more often than not you break the windscreen changing it which is why its worth checking the other areas first. A guy i know broke 2 changing them - of course it may be technique but others have had the same problem. There was some advice on the ldv facebook some time ago about softening and prestretching the seal before fitting but i cant remember the specifics.

    If you do change the windscreen seal it might be worth paying a screen company to do it, if they break it you may get another cheap / free as it was them that broke it.
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  6. #30
    Comfortably Numb Rick69's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NomadicRT View Post
    They usually are..they nesrly always have cab leaks.You can get a new seal off ebay.Side windows leak and somtimes roof gutter leaks
    I forgot about the gutters - another favourite place for them to leak. Check them carefully, either with a hose or your eye. If there are cracks in the sealant rake it all out and sikaflex them.

  7. #31
    Non of this matters NomadicRT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick69 View Post
    The problem with the window seal is that more often than not you break the windscreen changing it which is why its worth checking the other areas first. A guy i know broke 2 changing them - of course it may be technique but others have had the same problem. There was some advice on the ldv facebook some time ago about softening and prestretching the seal before fitting but i cant remember the specifics.

    If you do change the windscreen seal it might be worth paying a screen company to do it, if they break it you may get another cheap / free as it was them that broke it.
    Thats all i bought the seal for in case i need a new screen..ive just stretched bsck the seal lip and filled with black flexible gutter seal...its stopped most of the wster...the scuttle drains get blocked too so you get leaks via the heater.The side door window seals are useless the doors fill with water so keeping the drain free is a must.The cab sound deadening mat holds gallons of water so the floor rots and the sliding door windows leak like there are non if it rains heavy...LDVs love water.

  8. #32
    Non of this matters NomadicRT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vanwoman84 View Post
    Our side door leaks! It caused the step to rot. Had that and the driver's floor welded for the test. Also a nice transit seat fitted. Sorry but the LDV seats are made of cardboard!
    Does the tranny seat fit without much adaption ? The standard seats arent the best.The adjustable ones on earlier model 400's were more comfortable but hard to find.

  9. #33
    Heavenly Creature
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    That's the thing. We had to have so much of the floor cut away it's now basically a flat steel sheet. So fitting the tranny seat was no problem. We did the runners too so no going back now!!

  10. #34
    Heavenly Creature realnutter's Avatar
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    I'm thinking about using washing machine door glasses as side windows in my GRP luton, so I can have a good peer out from my bed...

    Can't work out how I'm going to seal them though....

  11. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by realnutter View Post
    I'm thinking about using washing machine door glasses as side windows in my GRP luton, so I can have a good peer out from my bed...

    Can't work out how I'm going to seal them though....
    Use the seal arrangement that is on the front of the washer. Cut a square out and rivet it to the side of the van, the door is already designed for fixing to a flat surface.

    You'll get the neighboring vans stuffing their laundry through the window and if you put in a fake coin-slot, you could earn a bob or two.
    Watch out for the washing powders getting sprinkled over you when you are laying underneath...

  12. #36
    Heavenly Creature realnutter's Avatar
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    I was planning to mount them inside out!

  13. #37
    Heavenly Creature
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    Quote Originally Posted by realnutter View Post
    I was planning to mount them inside out!
    I can still see that working, if you cut the whole front off the machine hinges, catch & all, then cut a hole in the side of your van, rivet & seal the front of the machine to the inside and tidy up the outside it'll work.

    I *love* steampunk

    Good Luck

    James

  14. #38
    Non of this matters NomadicRT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by realnutter View Post
    I've just paid out over 400 quid to have my cab floor welded.... The root cause of the rust was a leaky windscreen rubber, which I have yet to fix...

    However, the rust was made worse by LDV's stupid choice of cab floor covering material - some kind of moulded foam and rubber mat. The foam isn't closed cell, so acts as a giant sponge and holds lots of water in contact with the floor.. I want to put it back, for its sound deadening properties, so have tried to seal the underside...



    So here it is, with a good coating of liquid latex drying... it'll get another tomorrow, and maybe another on Thursday... Fingers crossed it makes a difference!

    Matt
    That stuff is the death of most vans...if you have it out,personally id find an alternative insulated fllooring and use the old mat as a pattern.

  15. #39
    Comfortably Numb Rick69's Avatar
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    I know its noisy, but id consider leaving it out and turning up the stereo. You can get rubber paint - maybe a few layers of that would help with the noise, and as NomadicRT suggested put a bit of rubber matting or something down.
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  16. #40
    Non of this matters NomadicRT's Avatar
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    You can buy thick waterproof soubd deadening material off the roll by the metre.You can also get it in kit form for some vehicles...usually it can be found on the bay of e.

  17. #41
    Non of this matters NomadicRT's Avatar
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    You can of course turn up the stereo...its cheaper...or insulate and put down real car carpet...make all your fellow vannies swoon over your interior decor skills...

  18. #42
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    We used bitumin roof flashing across the cab, tap with a screwdriver and if it sounds like a drum lay a strip of bitumin, then used Mass Laden Vinyl off ebay and some closed cell foam behind the dash. Also check the corners of the body where the bonnet sits, you can get breaks in the body that are hard to see but are right where all the water runs from the gutters and so it comes through there. Dont forget that for many of us LDV stands for Large Damp Vehicle, or Leaky Damp Vehicle. Also get a louder a stereo don't put the nasty foam back down.
    The following users think this post is groovy: NomadicRT

  19. #43
    I used to have a mini which had a hard mat stuck to the floor which seemed like bitumen sound deadening, i think it was applied from new judging by the paint,

    Problem was it bridged all the channels in the floor so it got wet and didn't dry so I chipped it all off with hammer and chisel and drilled drain holes.

    Then as I was a teenager I fitted a 2inch exhaust system, it was deafening but great fun, there was no point fitting a stereo you wouldn't have heard it.

    I wouldn't fit any sound deadening that wasn't removable to let it dry because the smallest gap will let water in to start rust.

  20. #44
    Heavenly Creature realnutter's Avatar
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    I had the scuttle trim panel off, to investigate water ingress.. The most obvious problem was the LHD wiper holes... sealed from the factory by a poxy bit of tape!! So they've had some aluminium disks glued over them with Araldite...

    The near side wiper spindle is very wobbly... it's easy to see how water could get in there... so.....

    Can you tell what it is yet?

    No knowing if they will do the job, but can't lose anything...
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  21. #45
    Comfortably Numb Rick69's Avatar
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    Wrapping greasy string round them i believe it the standard solution.
    If you can measure the spindles weve got a load of rubber o rings at work - if you wanted i could post you some?
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  22. #46
    Heavenly Creature realnutter's Avatar
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    Thanks for the offer, but I have an o-ring kit.. I just thought this a neater solution... the bottle caps are packed with grease.
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  23. #47
    Heavenly Creature realnutter's Avatar
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    Bit of work done this evening... made a replacement bonnet release cable, then went to grease the kingpins with my new grease gun... Off side was easy, but when I got to the nearside I found it has a straight grease nipple in the top. I can't get my gun in there coz it hits the inner wing! Easy enough to put a cranked nipple in there, anyone know what thread they are?

  24. #48
    wandering wanderingwill's Avatar
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    most of leaks on lvds can be traced back to the british leyland sherpa they leaked also...

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