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Thread: The Long Awaited MWB Sprinter Build

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    Comfortably Numb Rick69's Avatar
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    The Long Awaited MWB Sprinter Build

    At last, after several delays i've finally got my Sprinter. Shes a 308 MWB X plate, very tidy for her age. Got a few bits of rust to sort out, main ones are on the drivers door where the check strap failed and the door opened onto the wing, drivers side windscreen seal about halfway up (surface rust only) and on the side door near the handle. Few other cosmetic bits but nothing to shout about.

    Its had all the injectors done as well as some other work, and is the 308 so not a great deal to go wrong (touch wood)

    Progress will be here and there as ive got to fit it in round work and everything but thought id make a start. As its a Sunday I just stripped out the boarding and fibre glass that the previous owner had fitted, and removed a load of redundant wiring from the cab. Also fixed some of the plastics in the cab and replaced a load of missing fasteners which got rid of some rattles. Also worked out eventually how to tip the bloody passenger seat, the plan is to put the leisure batteries in there as its only dead space otherwise.

    Going to leave the wooden bulkhead in, to be fair it could go about 3 inches forward but for the amount of messing about i arent going to bother. The only things I will do to it are to put 25mm of celotex and another board cab side to keep a bit of heat in, and build a shuttered window into it which will provide access to the cab in case of emergency.

    Pics below - company name and number obscured by request, they are only vinyls so will get peeled off when it warms up a bit...Bed frame started - full size double:

    ADMIN EDIT: I've taken the pictures from post 205 and reattached them here as the original host isn't working - hope that helps people.














    Start of lots of wood cladding:










    Starting kitchen area:













  2. #2
    Walking back to happiness ma bungo's Avatar
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    Lovely blanc canvas

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    that looks a clean motor ( outside )....

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    Chilling Out Petew's Avatar
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    Will be watching this with interest
    The trouble is, you think you have time.


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    Comfortably Numb Rick69's Avatar
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    Well got up this morning with good intentions of getting it legal and going into town for my celotex only for the government to fuck it up.
    Insured it with no problems as a conversion in progress, went to tax it for the website to tell me that my tax would start from the 1st nov but would cost me a full year. Yeah right, i think ill wait 3 days robbing bastards.

    So instead i got the misuses hairdryer out and got the unwanted decals removed. Back door ones came off a treat once warmed up, side was going OK but the red ones are reflective - these peel off but leave the glue behind so will have to go over it tomorrow with some solvent.

    Got some kurust on the way to work, am going to tackle the rust spots tomorrow...
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    who'd you insure it wiv ?

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    Comfortably Numb Rick69's Avatar
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    Shield, 350 but I paid 40 foir the breakdown recovery to home option. They said as its still a van thats the reason it was so high, told me that at todays prices when converted and reregistered would be 230. Also put commuting to work down and 15k annual mileage which took it up a bit.

    Got 6 months to complete and reregister which im pretty sure will be plenty.
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    no good for me..... i need unlimited time to complete conversion.. lol
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    Heavenly Creature
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    looking forward to this build mate bestist of luck sure it will be a cracker

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    ^^^me too can't wait to see what you do to it

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    Comfortably Numb Rick69's Avatar
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    So as i said previously, the decals were removed by warming with a hairdryer and peeling. This leaves a film of glue, some places better than others. Used MEK pipe cleaner to soften the glue (turns it into a sticky mess) and a plastic scraper to get the worst of it off, then went over with a MEK soaked cloth to get the rest off. Comes up pretty well considering. Left the stripes down the sides to save some work, but the doors had the company name in them so they are stripeless. Options are to see if the local sign company can match the colours and just replace the strips on the doors, or paint the whole thing olive drab and not worry about it.

    Im leaning towards the latter option when it warms up a bit.

    Also treated some of the rusty areas, rust removed, wire brushed back to bare metal, kurust painted on, hammerite straight to rust paint then a second coat. Again, all this would cover nicely with military paint.

    Repaired some of the plastics, the front grille was cracked - repaired with a soldering iron by melting the pieces back together and using a tyrap as a filler rod, same with the cracked dash plastics.

    Got it taxed, so all legal now - wickes on saturday for some insulation and get started properly.

    Obligatary photos....



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    Heavenly Creature Shroom's Avatar
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    you are lucky its white and not so bad , most of the time its where the graphis has masked the UV from original paint , my mates had his ex library bus about 7 years now, its blue and you can still read the afterimage of the graphics 'what is a CD?' (it was used to edumacate peeps about the puters and the interwap )

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    Comfortably Numb Rick69's Avatar
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    Today i have mostly been sikaflexing battens to the floor and glueing insulation to the walls.
    As i was using expanding foam i also have glued my fleece jacket, my jeans, my t-shirt and my hands. Currently sitting with a piece of emery cloth sanding it off my fingers.....

    Has a bit of luck with the battens - inch by inch by six foot six long - 50p each on gumtree in town. Had 20 worth...



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    Heavenly Creature
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    How are you going to get in with that wood across the door frame
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    Comfortably Numb Rick69's Avatar
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    Contortionism helps with my bad back

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    Tuning In FULL TIMER's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick69 View Post
    Shield, 350 but I paid 40 foir the breakdown recovery to home option. They said as its still a van thats the reason it was so high, told me that at todays prices when converted and reregistered would be 230. Also put commuting to work down and 15k annual mileage which took it up a bit.

    Got 6 months to complete and re register which im pretty sure will be plenty.
    Are you intending to fit any window's in the habitation area, if not you might run into difficulties trying to re register as a motor caravan, they seem to require at least one side window to be fitted amongst other the stipulations
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    Comfortably Numb Rick69's Avatar
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    Yes i will be fitting a window. Not sure yet whether it will be a porthole or a seitz.

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    Seitz are a bit expensive.

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    Comfortably Numb Rick69's Avatar
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    They are, but the way i looked at it was im only using one so not too much, and it will be warm rather than using single paned sliders
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    Yes,quality is worth paying for.I had single pane sliders in a Bedford CF and a LDV 400,certainly noticed the cold.
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    Comfortably Numb Rick69's Avatar
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    Not much done this week as ive been at work, but arranged to take it to the garage i use so my mate who will be testing it next year could see if it would go on the ramps, and to have a look over it.

    Found one bit of sill i knew about, but not testable. One front to rear brake line needs replacing, and the rest of it would pass no problem. Had a good look underneath whilst it was up in the air and its solid, well worth doing that bit of sill properly and then waxoyling.

    Also sorted out a squeek on the left hand ball joint and/or drop link with liberal amounts of lube. Jim and Daz both reckoned it was a good buy, nice to have it confirmed! Total cost - some biscuits next time I'm passing. Not a problem!

    Only issue i found when i got it home was that the reversing lights dont work, luckily got it up the drive by using the brake lights as you dont need to use the throttle! Hopefully easy to sort out tomorrow as ive got the day off....
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    Comfortably Numb Rick69's Avatar
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    Day off today so id been planning all week to crack on. Id picked up the cold that everyone was sharing at work this week so felt shit but didnt want to waste the day.

    Reversing lights first. Not the fuse so got underneath and shorted out the switch - working lights. Easily sorted, a tenner from euro car parts. Shame Mercedes put the screw behind some bloody pipes....
    After id snapped the plastic pipe mounts, the pipes are now held with tyraps

    Did some more insulating with celotex and foam, filling in hard to get to and oddly shaped bits with b&q recycled plastic insulation. Whilst foam was drying set to tackling the side door. It has two latches, front and rear - when you opened the door it dropped 10mm off the rear latch which meant it needed a proper slamming to close it, just the thing to make you popular late at night when you've been for a piss. You also couldn't close it from the inside very easily. Turns out that the slider rollers and bracket mount through the door onto a piece of metalwork that in turn is spot welded to the inner skin of the side door, and some of these welds had broke allowing it to drop.

    After "adjusting" the metalwork in the door back to the correct level for the striker with an axle stand, a boot and a piece of wood I checked the closing, and when happy drilled two holes and fastened the bracket to the door skin with a couple of M5 stainless screws and nylocs. (Torx screw in lower pic goes through the aforementioned piece of metalwork and allows you to move the door up and down by a few mm)

    Whilst door was off I cleaned out and greased the runners and lubed all the wheels. Door now shuts with one hand with a lot less effort, and more importantly shuts properly from the inside.

    More tomorrow, assuming its stopped raining.....



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    Comfortably Numb Rick69's Avatar
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    So rain has stopped which is good. Still full of cold which is bad...

    Anyway, progress - foil taped up all the celotex i'd put up at the top half of the sides the other day, filling in the gaps with either foam or recycled plastic insulation beforehand. Also taped up the various holes that were left from screws etc, basically because I had a load of tape and thought it couldn't hurt.

    Fixed the fourth batten for under the bed to the floor with screws and sikaflex. There were a few areas of surface rust on the floor and wheel arches from where previous owners had chipped the paint and left it. Seeing as though i'd wombled some white hammerite from a skip a while ago thought it might as well go on the floor before the insulation to stop any more rusting and to give a bit of protection in case of spillages.

    Also cut and fixed the insulation for the bottom half of the sides and the rear doors. Glued in with expanding foam same as the rest. Cheated a bit with a couple of spot welded ribs and just cut a section out of the celotex and stuffed it with insulation. It's getting a vapour barrier anyway so shouldn't be an issue.

    Cut the insulation for the floor under the bed. Not stuck down yet as the hammerite is still drying. In front of the bed towards the cab will have more battens as it has to hold furniture and will be where we are walking - all the underbed floor has to do is have some boxes of various shit and the spare wheel stored on it.

    Todays pictures.......











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  24. #24
    Comfortably Numb Rick69's Avatar
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    Good news! The cold has gone - yay...

    So did some more insulating and some more foil taping this morning. I wont bore you with any pics as they will be pretty similar to yesterdays. Whilst the new insulation was drying I couldn't do much more in the back so I turned my attention to the cab.

    The plans for this build are all pretty much in my head, I want a full sized double bed and everything else is going to be built round it. As such space is going to be limited once I start adding gas, water, batteries, storage etc. With this in mind i'd had a quick look under the passenger seat at the boxes (once i'd figured out how to get the seat up) and it looked like one of them may possibly be big enough to house the leisure batteries.

    A once over with the tape measure confirmed that it would be, so I had something to do. The floor in the box slopes backwards, so some pieces of wombled wood were cut to raise the rear, and to support the middle. Wombled 18mm ply was then cut to fit, and the whole lot was sikaflexed and screwed together. Test fitted a battery - moved around a bit so some more 18mm ply was cut to go in front and at the sides of the batteries to hold them more rigidly. Couple more bits of wood were screwed and glued to seperate and hold the batteries. Tried them both in, very happy with result - space saved in the back and dead space utilised in the front.

    I am going to either use a piece of wood or get a ratchet strap and fix it across the top to hold the batteries at a later date, and also going to either glass or paint the inside in case of spillages. Also, I need to vent the batteries but I can't get to the back of the garage where my tube is at the moment as it's full of wood!

    For those of you still reading, more pics...














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