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Thread: Peugeot Partner Basic Build Plans

  1. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by FiveAlive View Post
    Ok so encountered my first technical problem... the solar panel has crocodile clips to hook on to the battery, but so does my adapter that gives me a 12v socket. I need to find some way of extending the terminals so I can attach both sets of battery clips.

    I've seen these and thought perhaps they would give me enough metal to get two clips on but I'm not sure as they look like they are designed to take in wires. Anyone got any ideas?

    Attachment 25463
    I had a similar issue with my connections. Just cut the clips off and put a ring terminal on the end then you can bolt it on to something like those.


  2. #26


    Something like this


  3. #27
    Just remembered you want you solar panel to be removable dont you. Maybe wite some sort of plug type connecting block to the battery using ring connections above and then plug you solar panel in and out of the plug connection when your using it.


  4. #28
    Yeah I think hard wiring makes the most sense but I wanted something where I wouldn't have to do any wiring haha. This is how my terminals look...


  5. #29
    So with these ring connectors could I attach my 12v adapter plug to those instead of croc clips, but also use croc clips for solar panel when I need to? Cos the ring doesn't seem to take up that much space on the terminal.

  6. #30
    You could wire everything up with ring connections and stack them. As long as you get a solid connection.

    You could buy the terminals and wire everything else up. Then clip the solar panel on that when you need it.


  7. #31
    Ok done a bit of research online and I think I get it (bear in mind I'm a DIY novice haha). So... I need a ring connector that matches the size of my battery terminal posts, and also is the right gauge for the size of wire my 12v adapter/croc clips has. I attach this using a "crimp tool" or some such device. That gets me to the stage where the 12v adapter is now wired into the battery but could be removed if needed, however what stops the ring connector from dislodging itself, except gravity of course?

    I would then have the rest of the terminal post free to add my solar croc clips I think. Do I need to secure the ring connectors to the terminal posts with something else or will they stay on their own?

  8. #32
    Quote Originally Posted by FiveAlive View Post
    Ok done a bit of research online and I think I get it (bear in mind I'm a DIY novice haha). So... I need a ring connector that matches the size of my battery terminal posts, and also is the right gauge for the size of wire my 12v adapter/croc clips has. I attach this using a "crimp tool" or some such device. That gets me to the stage where the 12v adapter is now wired into the battery but could be removed if needed, however what stops the ring connector from dislodging itself, except gravity of course?

    I would then have the rest of the terminal post free to add my solar croc clips I think. Do I need to secure the ring connectors to the terminal posts with something else or will they stay on their own?
    If your using the battery terminal blocks as above the ring connector would screw down under the nuts. They're only about 5mm rings so wont go directly over your battery post. You'll still need some terminal blocks or what ever they're called.


  9. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by NickJ View Post
    If your using the battery terminal blocks as above the ring connector would screw down under the nuts. They're only about 5mm rings so wont go directly over your battery post. You'll still need some terminal blocks or what ever they're called.
    Ahhh I think that's where I'm going wrong. My terminal posts are about 15mm across and I've been trying to find ring connectors of that size to fit over the top and around the whole post. I take it that's not the idea?

    So does it matter what size I get if they are going to sit on top of the posts?

  10. #34
    Hmmm, just watched a video of a guy wiring in these terminal connectors to his car battery and they don't work how I envisaged they would in my head. It looks like they have a bit that connects to the post, and another bit that screws down onto the wire that needs connecting (or I guess in this case the ring connector if the wire isn't thick enough to get a good connection).

    Gonna order a pair of terminal connectors and have a play around with it.

  11. #35
    Quote Originally Posted by FiveAlive View Post
    Hmmm, just watched a video of a guy wiring in these terminal connectors to his car battery and they don't work how I envisaged they would in my head. It looks like they have a bit that connects to the post, and another bit that screws down onto the wire that needs connecting (or I guess in this case the ring connector if the wire isn't thick enough to get a good connection).

    Gonna order a pair of terminal connectors and have a play around with it.
    I guess its difficult if its stuff you've not encountered before. You get different colours for different guages of wire. All you need to do is get good contact between the various components. All part of the fun learning new skills though.


  12. #36
    Yea it's a minefield of new information. I've seen a wing nut type connection of Amazon Prime, now I know I could slot a ring connector over the top and tighten with the wingnut, but is there any reason why I can't simply coil the wire around the thread and tighten the wingnut? Saves buying a crimper just for one little job.

  13. #37
    Quote Originally Posted by FiveAlive View Post
    Yea it's a minefield of new information. I've seen a wing nut type connection of Amazon Prime, now I know I could slot a ring connector over the top and tighten with the wingnut, but is there any reason why I can't simply coil the wire around the thread and tighten the wingnut? Saves buying a crimper just for one little job.
    You could do that but in all honesty for the cost of one tool I'd gey the tool. You might decide to run another feed or a small fuse board in the future to run lights and a ventilation fan. It will come in handy for spade connectors as well.

    I avoided buying mine just wraping my wires how I can but its more hassle. Plus if a connection works loose you run the risk of sparking and say you battery has been gassing if you havent vented it hydrogen and sparks have a volitile relationship.


  14. #38
    Yea I reckon you're probably right. I'll try it out and make sure the croc clips can fit over the terminal connector first, and then get it connected up more securely afterwards. Just bought this on Prime: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01MCR0LPE/ - pretty good being able to order to Amazon Lockers rather than a house

  15. #39
    Quote Originally Posted by FiveAlive View Post
    Yea I reckon you're probably right. I'll try it out and make sure the croc clips can fit over the terminal connector first, and then get it connected up more securely afterwards. Just bought this on Prime: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01MCR0LPE/ - pretty good being able to order to Amazon Lockers rather than a house
    They look okay. Actually I think I'd rather of used them ones. I got mine from halfords but I did need to have some thick leads wired into mine from an old set of jump leads for my split charge though.

    This is my door step

    I'll be cutting my crocodile clips off soon coz I keep kicking it off.
    The LED voltmeter is handy. I can see when my solarpanels are working. Check my voltage in a morning and decide if I need to turn my split charge on.


  16. #40
    Looks pretty sweet. So your split charge is just some jumper cables and an on/off switch? I might be half tempted to put one in.

  17. #41
    Quote Originally Posted by FiveAlive View Post
    Looks pretty sweet. So your split charge is just some jumper cables and an on/off switch? I might be half tempted to put one in.
    I had a relay in but I couldnt get it to work. To be honest I just dont think I grounded it properly but anyway I got pissed off with it.

    Bought the 100amp switch from halfrauds 15. Put a fuse holder in there with a 60 amp fuse.

    All you need to do is ground the negative (-) terminal to the van chasis. Then using the red wire connect from the starter battery to the fuse then to the switch and then finally your new battery. Having the volt mater helps (2 on ebay). When the engines running and you switch it on your charging your battery from the engine. I drive a fair bit so it makes sense.

    The switch from halfords has a red key for it. so I have the paracord on it. I put the key in and always clip the cord to my keys so I cant accidently leave it switched on when I leave the van.

    I just read I probably cant start the van from leisure battery as it would prob blow the 60amp fuse but I have the option to switch it on it my starter is flat and let it charge my starter battery a bit.


  18. #42
    Yea I think I'd need to borrow your paracord idea if I was gonna do that. I can just see myself leaving in on all night and draining the starter!

    I've wired up the new terminals that came and attached the bare wire of the 12v adapter. The wires look messy and I definitely would feel safer knowing they were connected with something more secure so I've ordered the crimping tool online, and I think I've almost worked out which ring connectors I need to buy from either B&Q or Maplins.

    Also my mattress came today in four pieces. I'm going to setup it up on my bed frame at home and see how it goes for a few nights. Only one more week til I set off down south, better get cracking.

    Grrrr. Can't get photos to work from my laptop, will have to add with my phone.

  19. #43


    Fits perfectly in the under seat storage.



    Bit worried the metal on the seat might bridge the terminals though.




  20. #44
    Comfortably Numb Rick69's Avatar
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    I assume that you will be fastening the battery down? Also, if it has a vent tube on it put a piece of pipe on it and drill a hole next to the battery in the floor and poke the tube out through it to vent the hydrogen.

    What size are the screw terminals, they look about 8mm to me but you'd have to measure. If that is the case you would want 8mm ring terminals, depending on the size of cable you are using probably either yellow or blue.

  21. #45
    I hadn't considered fastening it down. It's hard to see on the photo but it can't move much in any direction cos the tray just fits around the base. I tested tipping it and it can't fall over. Perhaps I should wedge some stuff around it just to make sure. It's a sealed battery so no vent hole.

    The cable is pretty small, perhaps too small for the amps going through it but I'm no expert. Might buy all three colours and see which connector works better.


  22. #46
    Here's the stackable mattress:


  23. #47
    Quote Originally Posted by FiveAlive View Post
    I hadn't considered fastening it down. It's hard to see on the photo but it can't move much in any direction cos the tray just fits around the base. I tested tipping it and it can't fall over. Perhaps I should wedge some stuff around it just to make sure. It's a sealed battery so no vent hole.

    The cable is pretty small, perhaps too small for the amps going through it but I'm no expert. Might buy all three colours and see which connector works better.
    For about a tenner you can get a selection box of electrical connections from halfords. All different colours. Handy to have around.


  24. #48
    Are you using ply wood for a base. I'm having to air mine off daily as its get moist underneath from condensation. Your stackable mattress will be okay I guessing your planning on stacking it daily anyway for living space.


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